WITH JASWANT SINGH IN ISRAEL AND PALESTINE

Jaswant Singh avoided controversial sites

The cry of a lakh children still reverberates in my soul.An everlasting memory.Only Israel can give  such a silencing cry.

Yad Vashem is located on the western slope of Mount Herzel or the Mountain of Remembrance in Jerusalem. It is the official memorial to the Jewish victims of Holocaust.It is a 44.5 acre complex 2638 feet above sea level,containing the Holocaust History Museum,Children's Memorial and Hall of remembrance.I was not at all prepared for the cry amidst darkness and among stars when I was leaving the Children's Memorial.An immaculate conception.

Yad Vashem

Yad Vashem is a Hebrew word meaning A Place and a Name.It comes in the Book of Isaiah,56:5:"Even unto them will I give in mine house and within my walls a place and a name better than of sons and daughters:I will give them an everlasting name,that shall not be cut off."

Thus the name,Yad Vashem conveys the idea that it is a national depository for the names of Jewish victims who will not be remembered otherwise.It will never be cut off.It rips apart  the very foundations of Nazism.As a memorabilia,I bought a VCD of the Eichmann trial.Adolf Eichmann,a Nazi Lieutenant Colonel,one the main organizers of Holocaust,underwent trial in Jerusalem.

Hall of Names

I was in Israel to report the first ever visit by an Indian Foreign Minister-Jaswant Singh.Jaswant was to land in Bengurion air port from Russia.We traveled from Newdelhi to Dubai;from there to Abudhabi where Ambassador K C Singh was our host.From there to Amman,capital of Jordan and then by road to Jerusalem.It was a four day visit of Jaswant starting July 1,2000.We reached Jerusalem on the Sabbath day,June 30.We traveled by the King Hussein Bridge or Allenby Bridge,past three border crossings.The Allenby Bridge that connects Jordan with West Bank and crosses the Jordan river,comes after 70 kilometers to the west of Amman,after the first crossing on the Jordanian side.You can't walk the bridge which is 0.24 kilometers.A bus travel is mandatory after paying the $ 29 toll.The bridge is named after British  General Edmund Allenby who replaced an old Ottoman bridge in 1918 after capturing Jerusalem in 1917.He entered Jerusalem on 17,December on foot through the Jaffa Gate instead of using horses or vehicles to show respect for the old city.He was the first Christian to control Jerusalem after many centuries.

Allenby entering Jerusalem on foot

This is the only way for the Palestinians to cross.Others can use the Northern crossing of Bet She'an,which is devoid of the long queue of Allenby.There are direct buses from Amman to Nazareth in the Old City.

Since it was a Sabbath day,the lift in the King David Hotel was stopping on every floor.Jews are not supposed to touch anything,even the switches on the lift,Yehonathan Tommer,the Israeli journalist friend who met me later,enlightened me.We went to the Old City in the night.I bought a couple of paintings.Lovers were having a good time after Sabbath.

The Old City is in East Jerusalem which was captured by Israel in the six day war in 1967.In the morning I went to the Wailing Wall,overlooking the Temple Mount,the site of the ancient temple with only the Western Wall at its foot remaining,now with the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque.Three religions from the same root in proximity.The Palestinians,it is said, have their Parliament built underground.Jaswant  went to the Wailing Wall built by King Solomon,and prayed.It is a place where Jews pray.

I went to Bethlehem which fall under  Palestinian Administration.I prayed in the Church of Nativity,bought a Hebrew Bible with Olive covering,an Olive engraving of Jesus and a candle holder.

A foreign minister from the BJP cabinet visiting a Jewish state was a bold initiative.Palestine too was in his itinerary.It was a postponed trip;Egypt was in the first list.Home Minister L K Advani had been to Israel in June.Camp David was behind;Egypt,the prominent Arab country had accepted Israel a reality.King Hussein of Jordan and King Hassan of Morocco were maintaining good relations with Israel.King Hassan's Principal Adviser,Andre Azouley was a practicing Jew.The Hotel was full of Americans.The boss of both Israel and Saudi Arabia were the same-Americans.

President of Israel,Ezer Weizman had visited Newdelhi in 1997.

When we were there Jyoti Basu was also there.The visits by several Indian Chief Ministers had resulted in more than 180 joint ventures.Lot of them in agriculture.While visiting a diary farm near Tel Aviv,I met a few Cochin Jews who migrated.One Woman told me she lived near the Market Road in Ernakulam.

Prime Minister Ehud Barak had called  the relationship between India and Israel "intuitive".Jaswant referred to this expression in his dinner lecture,'Foreign Policy Planning in an Uncertain World', the next day.He said:"We were thrown out of the loop of West Asia,particularly in the Post Gulf war scenario.We have been now drawn into the process of peace here.It is a beginning".He again used the word intuition  when he summed up his impressions at the port city of Haifa to us.The flight to Haifa,to see the War Memorial,was a trip down the memory lane for Jaswant.The Jodhpur Lancers led by his ancestors had helped liberate Haifa from the Turkish-German Forces during World War 1.The two Indian Cavalry Regiments of the 15th Imperial Service Cavalry Brigade under the command of Gen.Allenby had fought the Battle of Haifa on September 20,1918.Haifa Historical Society documents reveal that 900 Indian soldiers laid down their lives in the battle,for the Allied Forces.Major Dalpat Singh  who got the Military Cross is known as the Hero of Haifa.Captain Aman Singh Bahadur ,Dafedar Jor Singh got the Indian Order of Merit.Captain Anop Singh and Second Lieutenant Sagat Singh were awarded Military Cross.

Haifa War Memorial

Apart from Barak,Jaswant met President Weizman,Foreign Minister David Levy,Minister of Regional Development Shimon Peres and Opposition Leader Ariel Sharon.

As we crossed the border to Gaza,the difference was visible.Palestine had not recovered from the terrible destiny it had at the hands of Israel.Jaswant skirted the sensitive sites just paying a visit to the library of the Al-Azhar University in Gaza City that was funded by India.He met Palestinian leaders including Yasser Arafat and Palestinian Minister for International Co Operation,Dr Nabil Sha'ath.He termed his visit to Gaza a pilgrimage because it was the first substantive visit by an Indian leader after the Nasser-Nehru dialogue at Gaza in 1960.

Jaswant avoided the controversial sites and people.He didn't see Faisal Husseini,Palestinian Authority Minister for Jerusalem Affairs and unofficial Palestinian Foreign  Minister at Orient House in East Jerusalem.Jaswant avoided him so as not to anger Israel by giving an implied recognition to Palestinian claims to East Jerusalem as the capital of a future Palestinian State.He also didn't visit the Temple Mount, where the Palestinians have 'illegally' built an underground mosque in Solomon's Stables.

I felt we have one Ayodhya;some have a hundred.For the first time in my life,I heard gun shots just behind me,in Palestine.

Reference:My article with Yehonathan Tommer/The Pilgrim's Progress/The Week,July 16,2000
See my blog,WITH K R NARAYANAN IN CHINA