1607:FRANCOIS PYRARD IN CALICUT

The French Traveller was kidnapped in Calicut

Three accounts by French travellers,Francois Pyrard,Jean-Baptiste Tavernier and Abbe' Carre',describe how everything changed in Portuguese India,during the 17th century.Of the three,Pyrard was in India,from 1608 to 1610,and was in Kerala.

Not much is known about Pyrard's early life.He came from Laval in northern France.Some businessmen from there and from Saint-Malo decided to set up a company to follow the Dutch and the English to the East.Two ships were commissioned and young Pyrard left with them from Saint-Malo in 1601,possibly as a purser.Storms delayed the expedition and it took over a year to reach the Maldives.As Pyrard's ship approached the islands,the captain was ill below decks,the first and second mate were drunk and the watch was asleep.The ship struck a reef.It was 2 July,1602.40 of the crew managed to get ashore with some of the ship's silver.The Maldivians arrested them,beat them,confiscated their silver and refused them food so that they were reduced to eating grass and rats.Many of them died.12 escaped and stole a ship,which they managed to sail to Quilon,in Kerala.The Portuguese seized them and consigned them to the galleys after which they were never heard of again.

Pyrard learned the local language in the islands.Then he became friendly with the Sultan and lived comfortably for five years.In 1607,the islands were invaded by some Bengalis,looking for Pyrard's ship's cannon.They rescued him and his three surviving companions and took them to Chittagong.From there,the Frenchmen took a ship to Calicut,hoping to meet up with the Dutch.The people of Zamorin received them warmly since they were also enemies of the Portuguese.However,just outside Calicut,Pyrard and two of his companions were kidnapped by some Portuguese.They were taken as prisoners to Cochin,where they were incarcerated to a prison so crowded that it was impossible to sleep lying down.They were then sent by ship to Goa.On board,a cable snapped and Pyrard was badly injured.

Pyrard's itinerary

When Pyrard arrived in Goa in 1608,he was very ill and shackled in irons.The chains were removed but he was weak to walk.He was carried to the Royal Hospital.It was founded by Alfonso de Albuquerque,Governor of Goa,and been supported by kings and viceroys.It was under the supervision of the Jesuits and was governed by elaborate rules t only admitted European single men,mostly soldiers.There were 1500 beds and Pyrard was tucked into one.He was impressed.

There were Indian servants always present and a Portuguese superintendent visited every hour.For supper on first day,Pyrard had,a large fowl roasted,with some dessert served on Chinese porcelain.He thought he is in the finest hospital in the world:

Beautifully draped,and lacquered with red varnish;some are chequered and some gilded;the sacking is of cotton,and the pillows of white calico filled with cotton;the mattresses and coverlets are of silk or cotton,adorned with different patterns and colours,the sheets etc are of very fine white cotton.Then came a barber,who shaved all our hair off;then an attendant brought water and washed us all over,and gave us drawers,a white shirt,a cap,and slippers,and also placed beside us a fan and and an earthen ware bottle of water for drinking,and a camber-pt,besides a towel and hand kerchief,which were changed every three hours.

Pyrard statue in Laval,without face

Despite the luxury,the hospital had a terrible reputation for mortality.A recent despatch to the king had reported that at least 300 or 400 men between the ages of 18-30 died there every year.25000 soldiers alone died there in the 17th century!

Three weeks later,Pyrard felt better,but was persuaded to remain there,till his companions recovered.When discharged,he was re arrested,taken to the prison.There was a private room for Christians.A month later,he was able to get a message to as French Jesuit,who made a plea on his behalf to the Viceroy.The Viceroy had considered executing Pyrard since he had violated the law against the French by travelling to the Portuguese East.After a month,he and his companions were released.Having no money,Pyrard enlisted as a soldier.Over the next two years,he was mostly in Goa.He wrote a full account of his life in Goa.There were 5000 Portuguese soldiers in Goa.

There were female slaves whose attraction was that they could play musical instruments,embroider or make sweets or preserves.And others that were virgins,for they,deem it no sin to have intercourse with their slaves.

Pyrard's fellow soldiers either lived with a woman or shared a lodging with a few colleagues.Those who hared were often supported by married woman or widows.Despite their dubious origin,the soldiers put on great show of being gentlemen.The Indian were amazed when we told them these fellows were sons of porters,cobblers,drawers of water and other vile craftsmen.

Pyrard street in Laval,France

Pyrard seemed to be extremely interested in the habits of the women,though there is no personal information about his actions.The women took their ease in their smocks or bajus,which are more transparent and fine than the most delicate crape of these parts;so their skin shows beneath as clearly as if they had nothing on;more than that,they expose the bosom to such an extent that one can see quite down to the waist....the women at Goa are exceedingly lewd,so amorous and so addicted to fleshly pleasures,that when they find the smallest opportunity,they fail not to use it.

These women,he wrote,used their servants and slaves to make assignations,even drugging their husbands so as to take their plasure,without risk.The viceroys would take any pretty woman they wanted,if necessary first sending their husbands away on official expeditions.

In 1609,an edict came from the king to the viceroy commanding him to expel any Dutch,English or French,in case they were spies.Pyrard managed to get a free passage on carrack going to Brazil.He received farewell sums from the viceroy,arch bishop and the rich,but his pocket was picked and the purse stolen.His companions helped him out and finally,he sailed in February,1610.He arrived back in his home town of Lavel,nearly ten years after his departure.It is said,he took to drink.But he published an account of his sojourn.
The second volume of The Voyage of Francois Pyrard of Laval to the East Indies contains a chapter,titled,The History of Kunhali,the Great Malabar Corsair,on Kunhali Marakkar.It almost runs into 19 pages,and differs with the accounts of historian De Cout9,who spoke to Kunhali and his hench man,Chinale in the Goa jail;it also differs from the account of Faria y Souza.

I am giving a very abridged version here,of the chapter on Kunhali(names unchanged):
During the viceroyalty of Dom Antonia de Noronha(1571-73),Kunhali the elder(uncle of the great corsair)native of Kurichi,eyed,Puthupatanam.With the Zamorin's permission,he built a fortress,Marakkar Kotta there.Their original house was at Kollam.They moved to Thikkodi about 1525.
On the death of the uncle,nephew Mahomet Kunhali Marakkar succeeded.He seized a ship from China;assisted the Captain and soldiers of the Queen Olala and also the Melique at Chaul.
By the end of 1591,the Viceroy Mathias de Albuquerque decided to send two armadas-one under Andre Furtado de Mendoza against the Raja of Jaffna and the second under Alvaro de Abranches against Kunhali.While approaching Ceylon,Furtado defeated a fleet of Kunhali,under Cutimusa,nephew of Kunhali,in a battle at Karativu.Cutimuasa escaped.
Just before the arrival of Alvaro,Jesuit captive,Francisco da Costa represented to the Zamorin,the advantages of a Portuguese alliance for the suppression of Kunhali.Alvaro was communicated with.The Viceroy agreed and a treaty was signed.Zamorin laid the foundation for a Catholic church.
The grand son of Vasco da Gama,Francisco da Gama(31) arrived as Viceroy in Goa on 22 May 1597.He became unpopular.He appointed his brother Dom Luis da Gama (30)as Commander of the armada against Kunhali.Though there was wide spread discontent against the appointment,Luis left Goa on 13 November 1597 to capture Kunhali.In a meeting with Luis at Calicut,the Zamorin demanded 30,000 patacoes and Portuguese soldiers.The Portuguese found this inadmissible,and declared Zamorin,an enemy.Luis returned.Zamorin altered his mind.By the end of 1598,the Zamorin camped outside Kunhali's fort,with a large army.In December,Luis left Goa.He had 1500 men.Arch Bishop Menezes was also leaving Goa,for Malabar.At a council at Kottakal,in which the Archbishop was present,a vote was taken for the attack on Kunhali.Then the Archbishop returned to Cochin,restrained the Cochin Raja and send a few ships to Malabar.
The forces were ready for the attack on 3 March,1599.Luiz da Sylva was the commander.on the 4th,a meteor was found in the night sky,which the Portuguese took as a bad omen.The fire signal was shown at midnight,instead of the early hours.da Sylva was shot through the head;two more commanders fell.Gama withdrew his force to Cochin;da Sylva's body was interred at Kannur.
Against the wishes of Gama,Furtado was made Chief Captain of Malabar.He came in December.The allied commanders,including the Zamorin met on 16 at Kunhali's ancestral home.The entire force was ready by February,1600.The final onslaught was planned on 7 March.Negotiations went on and Kunhali surrendered on 16 March.
Last of all came Kunhali with a black kerchief on his head,and a sword in his hand with the point lowered.He was at that time,a man of fifty,of middle height,muscular and broad shouldered.He walked between three of his chief moors.One of these was Chinale,a Chinese who had been a servant of Malaka,and said to have been the captive of the Portuguese,taken as a boy from a fusta and afterwards brought to Kunhali.
According to Pyrard's account,Kunhali fell at Zamorin's feet,but Furtado advanced,seizing Kunhali,by the arm.
The rest is history.

 Read,EDWARD BARLOW IN VALAPATTANAM